2021 Comte de Vogue: A new era

2021 Comte de Vogue is a highly significant vintage. It is the first vintage at the domaine overseen by new winemaker Jean Lupatelli – whose arrival has been met with much excitement from the critics. According to the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley, Lupatelli has “already succeeded in producing some the most perfumed, sensual, liberated young wines I’ve ever tasted at this address”. This is a vintage that bodes well for the future and should not be missed.

Lupatelli’s aim is to refine terroir expression at Comte de Vogue. The domaine benefits from some of the very best vineyards in the Cote de Nuits. Comte de Vogue is almost synonymous with Musigny: it owns around two thirds of the whole appellation. The holding encompasses some of the best terroir: the entirety of the lieu-dit Les Petits Musigny, and much of Les Grands Musigny as well. Alongside the red, very small quantities of white Musigny are also made. There were only four barrels in 2021. From a single plot on the other side of Chambolle comes the most firmly structured of the domaine’s wines, Bonnes Mares.

The approach in 2021 has been to make small tweaks to the production process. They have moved to small crates for picking, use gentler fruit handling in the winery and are modifying the cooperage. The results speak for themselves: like William Kelley, Neal Martin is impressed, identifying “a newfound freshness and tension” in the wines this year.

The only downside is of course the quantities. The devastating frost in 2021 reduced yields throughout Burgundy . 2021 Comte de Vogue was only around 40% of normal production. In addition to crop losses due to hail, there was rigorous sorting to remove substandard fruit.

This is an exciting time for one of Burgundy’s oldest and most prestigious estates, famous for its wines of perfume and finesse.

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