Bartolo Mascarello: wines of elegance and finesse

Very few producers in Barolo today continue the traditional practice of blending across sites for their flagship wine. Bartolo Mascarello is the leading proponent of this technique, and the results are unrivalled. These are wines of extraordinary elegance and fragrance, which rank among the finest in Barolo.

Highly sought-after for many years, these wines have seen an uptick in demand in recent months. Tiny quantities are made: the estate has only five hectares under vine. Proprietor Maria Theresa Mascarello makes just one Barolo, using grapes from Cannubi and San Lorenzo in Barolo, and from Rocche dell’Annuziata in La Morra.

Maria Theresa believes firmly in traditional production methods. Fermentation takes place without added yeasts or temperature control in vessels of wood and cement, and lasts for three to four weeks. The wines are then matured for three years in 25 hectolitre Slavonian oak, followed by a further year in bottle before release. This minimalist approach allows for maximum fruit expression, giving beautifully perfumed wines.

The transparency of the style at Bartolo Mascarello is such that the specificity of each vintage shines through in the wines. The latest releases, 2019 and 2018, are excellent and will show brilliantly with time. For immediate drinking, more forward vintages such as 2007, 2009 and 2011 offer excellent value.

This is one of the very best addresses for traditionally styled Barolo. Only 1,250 bottles of each vintage are made. Don’t miss them.

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