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Cote Rotie Jamet 2023: the best since 2015

Domaine Jamet makes intensely aromatic, finely delineated Cote Rotie that is for many emblematic of the appellation. The new 2023 vintage is one of the best in recent years. “Outstanding” is how Vinous describes it, while the Wine Advocate calls it “precise and ethereal” and reckons it’s the best since 2015.

2023 is the 47th vintage for Jean-Paul Jamet. Aside from giving up half the domaine in 2013 to his brother Jean-Luc (who now operates under a different label), he has changed little over the last near half century. He works the vineyard by hand due to the steep slopes. He retains old vines as much as possible (the oldest are almost 90 years old). He re-plants where necessary using diverse materials, making for striking complexity in the wines.

What makes the wines special is not only the viticulture. It is also what happens – or doesn’t – in the winery. There is very little de-stemming, and very little new oak. Few single vineyard wines are made. Instead, the 17 lieux-dits for the Cote Rotie are matured separately in old demi-muids before blending at the end of elevage. The final wine is an intricate blend renowned for its balance and finesse.

2023 was a year of elegant wines in the Northern Rhone. Rain in the Spring meant the vines were well-placed to withstand a hot August. After this, excellent conditions concluded the growing season. Jean-Paul Jamet waited until the end of September to harvest, achieving ripe tannins and a vibrant fruit profile.

This is an excellent vintage at one of Cote Rotie’s most sought-after addresses.