Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet: one to watch

Berthaut-Gerbet is a historic domaine on an upward trajectory. Run by Amelie Berthaut, the domaine has benefitted from the expertise of her husband, Nicolas Faure, since 2017. Faure’s experience working at Chave, DRC and Prieure Roch makes him well-placed to take charge of the vineyards here. The wines are, unsurprisingly, increasingly impressive. Soft, fragrant and nuanced, these are Burgundies which are well worth seeking out.

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet is based in Fixin and dates back to the 18^th century. The modern domaine comprises sixteen hectares and is a result of the combination of the Berthaut domaine with vines from the Gerbet estate in Vosne, originally belonging to Amelie’s mother’s family.

The domaine today is farmed on organic lines. Fermentation takes place in concrete, with some use of whole bunches depending on cuvee. Since taking over the domaine, Amelie Berthaut has moved towards softer extraction and shorter elevage than in the past. Nicolas Faure’s involvement has led to enhanced finesse and terroir expression.

The latest releases are the 2022s and 2021s. 2021 was a small vintage due to frost, but one of concentration and freshness. The 2022s are bright and vibrant, with pleasingly moderate alcohol levels. Neal Martin is a fan, admitting that he “adored this range from Berthaut: pure fruit, fine extract, and nascent wines that brim with energy”. William Kelley is similarly enthusiastic, commenting that “all the stars are aligned at this address”.

These are superb wines from an up-and-coming domaine which deserves to be better known.

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