Leclerc Briant has a strong claim to being the most dynamic and innovative house in the entirety of Champagne today. Some aspects of the approach here, a combination of biodynamic methods and mystic philosophy, are unusual. However, as Jancis Robinson puts it, ‘the results are obvious in the glass: massive life, complexity and tension’.
Chef de Cave Herve Jestin is an authority on bioenergetics (or the study of energy flows). He follows biodynamic principles in both vineyard and winery: only grapes grown biodynamically or organically are used. This gives lower pH than is standard in Champagne, giving the all important freshness that is becoming harder and harder to achieve in the era of climate change.
Throughout the production process, the lunar calendar is consulted with the aim of “harnessing cosmic energy”. The wines are fermented and aged in vessels made from some unusual materials: glass, terracotta and even gold. The base wines then undergo long lees ageing without racking, which is rare in Champagne. Very little sulphur dioxide is used; indeed, some of the wines are labelled zero sulphur. Dosage is also low, and the wines are bottled with lower pressure than the majority of Champagnes, which gives a gentler effervescence to showcase the complexity of the wines. The resulting wines have exceptional complexity and depth. Very small volumes are made.
This is a house that is building a reputation both for its highly distinctive style and for outstanding quality. We are very excited about these wines – as is Jancis Robinson. She called Leclerc Briant ‘possibly the single most exciting visit’ of her trip to Champagne in 2019, and ‘a name to watch’.
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