2020s from Comte de Vogue

2020 is the end of an era at Comte de Vogue. This historic domaine, known for its outstanding wines of perfume, density and finesse, has been run for over 30 years by Francois Millet, and 2020 was his last vintage. Because of the very warm dry August, 2020 was a year of small quantities throughout Burgundy, but the best producers – de Vogue among them – made superb, concentrated wines with high levels of ripe tannins.  This is not a vintage to miss.

Comte de Vogue is almost synonymous with Musigny. The domaine is the largest landowner of this grand cru, with around two thirds of the whole appellation. This includes some of the best terroir: the entirety of the lieu-dit Les Petits Musigny, and much of Les Grands Musigny as well. Alongside the red, very small quantities of white Musigny are also made: only seven barrels in 2020. The Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses comes mainly from a single plot of 50 year old vines below the Musigny appellation. From the other side of Chambolle, from a single plot in the south-east corner, comes the Bonnes Mares, the most firmly structured of the domaine’s wines.

The vines at Comte de Vogue are farmed according to organic principles, although the domaine is not certified. In the cellar, the grapes undergo cold maceration prior to vinification. Pumping over is the norm, with punching down employed only for the Bonnes Mares.  The wines are aged 15-20 months in oak barrels, of which around a third are new.

read more